What is Sateen?
Sateen is a cotton fabric (sometimes rayon) with a satin-like finish, often found in bed sheets. The better qualities of sateen are mercerized to render a higher sheen. Also known as pearl or pearle cotton, this process of treating cotton with sodium hydroxide increases luster, strength, affinity to dye and resistance to mildew, but also increases the fabric’s affinity to lint. Cotton with long staple fiber lengths responds best to mercerization.
 Lower quality sateen is only calendered (another word for fraud) to produce the sheen, which gives the consumer enough time to pay a high price for it and enjoy it until after a few washings when the sheen disappears along the same path as the money it cost to buy it. It is made by pressing the fabric between two rolling pins, which gives it a glossy appearance.
Sateen has a satin-like feel and is usually 100% woven cotton, although occasionally it is formed from rayon. Only yarns that are combed are used in the process, which provides a screen for fabric impurities. Sateen may be bleached, dyed, or printed. It is difficult to make good bound buttonholes on it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams. The weaving process differs for sateen, the structure entailing four over, one under, placing the most threads on the surface. The end result is an extremely soft fabric that is slightly less durable than other weaves.
Alas, all that glistens is not sateen and not all sateen glistens for long. Look for the better quality sateen weave the next time you buy sheets and pillowcases. It may cost a bit more up front, but in the long run, they will remain soft and shiny for a long time to come!
Sources:
http://www.luxurybedsets.com/page/837717
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